Though rarely on my bike these days, Hannah?s always along for the ride. Photo by Tristan Willey; other photos by the author.

The room is dirt cheap and smells it. I’ve been on the road for five weeks now, mostly camping to save money, and as I lay on the squeaky bed counting flies on the ceiling, I’m suddenly sick for fresh air. But nothing feels fresh in this part of Philly. The only thing I can think to do is pack up the bike and ride.

Though it’s not even 4 a.m., I find a young guy in work clothes sitting on the curb between our rooms, undoubtedly waiting to be picked up for some ass-kicking shift. He watches as I load up my BMW R 1200 RT test bike. Beyond “Hi” we don’t share a language, and it’s clear he’s baffled by the middle-aged lady with the big motorcycle, but I get a double thumbs up as I throttle away.
The Gold Wing Tour DCT devours backroads as eagerly as it does interstates.

My first task of the day is riding 200 miles north to swap the RT for a Honda Gold Wing Tour DCT. I?ve been testing bikes as I slowly crawl around America searching for its best roads. I tell people that when I return to the West Coast, I?ll write a book about what I?ve found, but really, it?s all an excuse to run. And yeah, we all know it?s not always the answer, but if you?re on the right bike, it sure can put some distance between you and dissatisfaction.

I?ve just returned from New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine on the RT, ...