Albania via the TET exceeded all my expectations; it?s truly an ADV riders? paradise.

The seeds for my journey on the Trans Euro Trail were planted in 2015, when I toured Europe on my BMW R 100 CS. I had the briefest sample of Albania, an afternoon riding the most dramatic mountainous landscape on a pristine ribbon of tarmac. Smooth riding perfection soon turned into a perilous off-road trail that put my bike and me well out of our comfort zone. As snow fell and my extended sump rebounded off rocks, I made a rare sensible decision and turned back to Montenegro, vowing to return better prepared one day.

The author modified his 1982 BMW R 80 ST with late-?80s GS parts such as the tank, seat, fairing, bash plate, front wheel, and rear shock.
This time around I took my 1982 BMW R 80 ST. It?s not a true off-road bike, but modified with a wide handlebar, a 21-inch front wheel, a longer rear shock, and a bash plate, it?s more than capable of taking on tricky terrain. With countless days on Wales? toughest greenlanes, plus an enduro race under my belt, I was ready to take on Albania properly.

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Throwover panniers have more than one use.

Choosing a route was easy. The Trans Euro Trail is an incredible resource. With nearly 32,000 miles of off-road trails mapped across Europe, it?s a lifetime?s worth of riding. The Albania section covers 500 miles, which could be a day?s riding on tarmac but is a lot longer off-road. Free GPS...