Shady ridge road just above the Black River Cheese store.

Snik. That?s the sound of my 2016 Yamaha FJR1300 moving up a gear, more specifically into the model?s new 6th gear, calming my ride just a bit more as I settle into that Zen state of rolling meditation. I?ve just left Kingston, Ontario, on the Canadian northeast corner of Lake Ontario, and I?m heading west for Prince Edward County (PEC), a peninsula of land identifying more closely with the lake rather than with the land just to the north. As I head down Ontario Highway 33, a.k.a. Bath Road, a welcome drop in temperature affirms this association. The cooling air is always the first taste of my favorite ride.

Highway 33 carries me hard by the water, inviting me into gently sweeping curves and picturesque straights offering farmland views on the right, and wide-open waterscapes on the left. Not technically challenging, but oh-so satisfying. The villages of Millhaven, Bath and Adolphustown float by, as do seasonal roadside offerings of sweet corn, strawberries, apples and veggies of all kinds. Tonight?s supper, conceived and assembled on the spot, will be the cherry topping.
The Quinte Skyway Bridge in the distance, heading north out of the county.

Just west of Adolphustown the Highway ends at the Glenora Ferry, crossing the 1-kilometer Adolphus Reach in the Bay of Quinte in about 20 minutes. The first commercial ferry license here was granted in 1802, accommodating the loyalist settlers on both shores. The ...